Vali Dress by Pattern Fantastique | Sew Along Tutorial from Sewing Therapy

Hello, I’m Sara, your virtual sewing instructor with a sew-along tutorial for the Vali Dress by Pattern Fantastique! The written instructions can be confusing so I hope my video is helpful for you as I walk you step-by-step through this pattern. This is such a beautiful and feminine smock dress with two neck options, standard and drop. If you’re a beginner, I recommend that you make the standard neck option first and build your confidence before tackling the more challenging drop neck option. This pattern features a unique method for making side seam pockets. If you’ve ever been intimidated to sew side seam pockets, this method could be a good alternative for you!

And I highly suggest you watch the video especially if you are a beginner or have things that you don’t quite understand with the written instruction.

PDF Vali Top + Dress from Pattern Fantastique Sewing Patterns

These are my online fabric shops.
Dailylike Canada
Two O Nine Fabric Studio

The fabrics I used in the video:
Winsome Bio Washed Cotton in Baby Blue 

The sewing machine I have:
Bernette B37 Swiss Design Computerized Sewing Machine (USA)

The items I always use for my sewing project

LDH Scissors and thread snip 

Tailor’s Chalk Pencil 

Poly Sewing Thread 

Lightweight Fusible Interfacing 

Craft Clips

Flat Head Pins

Point Turner

Wash-away Wonder Tape

Let’s get started!

Vali Top + Dress Pattern from Pattern Fantastique, 1/4″ wide Elastic, Fusible Lightweight Interfacing

Recommended Fabric
Any lightweight woven fabric from viscose and silks to linens and cotton

2 Front Yoke (Mirrored), 1 Back Yoke (On Fold), 1 Front Skirt (On Fold), 1 Back Skirt (On Fold),  2 Sleeve, 2 Front Neck Facing (Mirrored), 1 Back Neck Facing, 2 Front Opening Facing (Mirrored), 1 Drop Neck Front Opening Facing (Optional), 2 Ties + 2 Extra Ties for Drop Neck Option, 2 Elastic (your upper arm measurement +1″)

*Interfacing will give the area additional strength and support

1. Staystitch
*Staystitching prevents bias/curved areas from stretching out
Staystitch all the necklines

2. Darts
Fold, aligning the dart notches, and pin RST (Right Side Together)
Sew from the edge to the center
Don’t backstitch and leave the tails of the thread
Tie off the thread at the dart point
Trim the thread
Press the darts toward the center

3. Facings
Fold and press 1/4″ on the outer edges of all the Facing pieces
Baste the curved edge
*The basting stitch will help create a nice curve
Sew as close as the edge as you can and leave the tails
Stitch Length 3.5 ~ 4
Pull the thread tails and make the curve curl

Drop Neck Option
Fold the rest of the edge and press

4. Ties
Make Ties using your preferred method

5. Assemble Yokes
Sew the Front Yoke and the Back Yoke at the shoulder RST
Press the seam toward the Back Top

6. Assemble Facings
Sew the Front Top Facing and the Back Top Facing at the shoulder RST
Unfold folded edge and sew
Open the seam and press
Pin and sew Front Neck Facing and Front Opening Facing RST
Use the fold line as a guideline
Refold the edges and press

7. Assemble Yoke and Facing
Pin and baste the ties 3/8″ below from the top edge RST
Pin and sew Yoke and Facing all around the neckline
*Make sure all the layers are flat and shoulder seams are aligned

8. Drop Neck (Skip this step if you are making a standard neckline)
Draw a line from the center top to mark point
Draw parallel lines 1/4″ away from the center line
Taper at the mark point
Pin the Neck Facing to the Front Skirt RST
Sew the v-line with shorter stitches
Cut the center line for the neck opening
*At the end point, cut as close to the stitch as you can, being careful not to cut the stitch
Unpick a few stitches 1/2″ below the edge for the tie
Insert the raw end of the tie and sew
Turn right side out and press
Understitch the Facing to the seam
*Understitching is stitching that is sewn as close to the seam line as possible holding the seam to the facing or lining
Prepare for making gathers on the top edge of the Front Skirt

9. Assemble Yoke and Front Skirt
Unfold the folded edge and pin Facings up to the notch RST
Adjust front gathers to fit
Sew from the center to the next notch
Serge up to where the Facing starts
*Clipping helps the curves and corners sit nice and flat when turned the right side out
Clip the curves of the neckline
Press the Facing toward the seam
Understitch the Facing to the seam around the neckline
Understitch the Front Opening Facing to the seam
*You don’t need to sew up to the corners
*Sew as close as you can
*Make sure to sew the seam under the Facing
Turn right side out and give a nice press
Match the shoulder seam and make sure layers are flat
*I recommend you either pin all around the Facing or use Wash-Away Wonder Tape
Press the Yoke seam upwards
Edgestitch/Topstitch Facing to Yoke

10. Gathers
Prepare for making gathers on the top edge of Sleeves
Prepare for making gathers between notches of Back Skirt
*I use two methods for the gathers (You can check out my M7969 and Zero Waste Gather Dress)

11. Assemble Yoke, Sleeves, and Skirts
Adjust the gathers between the notches on the Back Skirt
Sew from/to the mark on the pattern RST
Match the notches and pin the Sleeve and Yoke RST
*The side marks will be located where the other gathers start
Adjust the gathers
Sew from/to the mark
Remove the cord
Pin and sew the corners of Sleeve and Skirt
Repeat for the other three corners
Make sure to sew from where the other stitch ends
Let’s check that all the corners look okay before serging
Serge the Sleeve seam all at once

12. Side Seams
Match the underarm seams and side seams and sew RST

13. Pockets
Sew the Pocket Bag side
*A few back stitches will give extra strength to the Pocket opening
Snipping the bottom corner of the Pocket will make serging easier
Press Pocket Bag towards the front
Pin the Pocket Bag to Front Skirt and topstitch around the Pocket
*I drew a line around the Pocket in order to sew from the front

14. Sleeve
Doublefold the Sleeve hem to the width of your elastic and press
Insert the elastic into the opening
Sew the edges of the elastic to join together
*Check that the elastic is flat around the entire sleeve before sewing
Close the opening

15. Hem
Doublefold the hem and edgestitch/topstitch

Alright! That’s it for today! Thanks for reading and I will see you in the next post!

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