Pona Jacket from Helen’s Closet Pattern | Sewing Therapy’s Sew Along Tutorial

Hello, Sara here! Today’s project is the incredible Pona Jacket by Helen’s Closet Patterns! This pattern really is incredible – if you look up the hashtag #ponajacket you’ll find so many variations of the pattern. Depending on the fabric and modifications, this jacket can be as fancy as a blazer and as casual as a sweater-blanket.

Helen has lots of hack ideas on her blog and Instagram so before you dive into making your own, please have a good look as you may want to try some like Hong Kong seams or a belt attachment. I modified mine to have the chic, oversized look that I love. Check the details and measurements of the finished garment before cutting so that your Pona Jacket will be something you love and wear throughout the seasons and for many years to come!

Although I always try my best to give you clear and easy to understand instruction, I strongly recommend you watch the video at least once to get the right idea. You can always come back and read the part that you forgot or wasn’t sure of.

Before we go on, I must tell you that I really like my previous project ‘Elodie Wrap Dress from Closet Core Patterns’. You can also check that out if you are thinking of making your own beautiful wrap dress! 

Now, who’s ready to add this remarkable jacket to their wardrobe? Let’s get started. 🙂

Pona Jacket by Helen’s Closet (Only PDF available)

Craft Clips
Canada https://amzn.to/32vmK2u
USA https://amzn.to/32w91s4

All the fabrics I used are from my fabric studio

LDH Scissors and thread snip

These are my online fabric shops.
All the fabrics I use are from either Dailylike Canada or Two O Nine Fabric Studio.
Dailylike Canada http://www.dailylike.ca
Two O Nine Fabric Studio https://www.etsy.com/shop/twooninefabricstudio

Use 5/8″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated

2 Front (Mirrored), 1 Back on Fold, 2 Sleeve, 2 Pocket, 2 Front Facing (Mirrored), 2 Collar on fold, 1 Neck Facing on fold

0. Preparation
Fuse light/feather-weight interfacing to Neck Facing and 1 Collar Piece
*Staystitch – A straight stitch will prevent fabrics from stretching out
Staystitch (3/8″ – 1/2″) along all the bias cut edges such as Front Neck, Back Neck and Front Neck Facing

1. Facing
Pin and sew Front Facing and Neck Facing at shoulders RST (Right Side Together)
And serge
Press the seam towards the front
Finish the outer edge using your preferred methods such as serging, rolled hem or bias binding
My fabric is too thick for the other methods so I chose to serge

2. Assemble Bodice
Pin and sew Front and Back at shoulders RST
And Serge
Press the seam towards the back

3. Sleeve
Match the sleeve notch to the shoulder seam and sew Sleeves to the Bodice RST
And Serge
The third cone of my serger (upper looper) ran out. I’m a person who likes a pop of colours for my inside seam

Pre-pressing for guidance (to help with hemming later)
Fold 1/4″ and fold again at the angle, and press
Unfold the Sleeves
Pin and sew the underarm seams and side seams RST
Before serging, snip the curves
And serge
Re-fold the sleeve hem along the pre-pressed guides, pin, and edgestitch/topstitch WST (Wrong Side Together)

4. Collar
Pin and sew along the three un-notched edges of the collar RST

Grade seam
*Clipping corners make making pointed corners easier, especially with heavier fabrics
And clip the corner

Turn collar right side out, make nice pointed corners and press
Topstitch 1/4′ around the finished edges of the collar
*Topstitch – A line of stitching visible on the garment Using thicker thread or a longer stitch length can give a nice finished look

*Baste – A long straight stitch that temporarily holds layers of fabric together
Match the notches and the center of the Jacket and the Collar RST
Pin and sew the Facing, Collar and Jacket together, sandwiching the Collar RST

Trim the seam
Clip the curved part

5. Assemble Jacket + Facing
Sew Facing to Jacket Front at the hem RST
Ignore the length difference! The Jacket is longer than the Facing
Sew the Jacket Front and Facing at the front, sending the seam down RST
Trim the seam and clip the corner
Turn the Jacket side out and give the Collar and lapel a nice press
Make sure the seam of the hem is laying pointed down

From the outside, topstitch 1/4″ to the hem

6. Hem
Fold the Jacket hem 5/8″ WST

And fold 1 3/4″ or the measurement the Jacket Front naturally turns under to meet the facing
Pin and edgestitch/topstitch
Stitch in the ditch or hand sew, securing the Jacket Facing

7. Pocket
Fold and press 1/4″ of the pockets WST
Fold again at the notches towards the right side and press RST

Sew along the top sides
Turn the Pocket right side out and fold the other edges
And Press
Edgestitch / Topstitch
Pin the pockets at markings
Edgestitch the side and bottom edges, sewing through Facing
Secure the top corners with your preferred method

And that’s the Pona Jacket! I hope you found this tutorial helpful and I can’t wait to see your versions. Use the hashtag #sewingtherapy on your Pona Jacket so we can all see your finished jacket and find inspiration from each other.

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Thanks for reading! I will see you in the next tutorial!

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Let’s get connected!
Sewing Therapy
Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/yoursara_k/
Blog – http://sewingtherapy.net/
Twitter – https://twitter.com/SewingTherapy

Dailylike Canada
Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/dailylikecanada
Facebook – http://www.facebook.com/dailylikecanada
Pinterest – https://www.pinterest.ca/dailylikecanada

Two O Nine Fabric Studio
Instagram –https://www.instagram.com/twooninefabric

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