Gilbert Top from Helen’s Closet Patterns | Sewing Along Tutorial by Sewing Therapy

Hello, Sara here. Happy new year everyone! I’m so excited for all the creations to come in 2021. The first tutorial of the year 2021 is Helen’s Closet Patterns’ The Gilbert Top! It’s a modern take on a classic boxy button-up shirt with two options: View A with a tie-front cropped hem; View B with bell sleeves and longer length.

And DON’T FORGET TO SUBSCRIBE! I will only open to members only soon. 🙂
Also, you can check out my last tutorial a lot of people love ‘Peppermint Everyday Dress’. IT’S A FREE PATTERN!! So don’t miss out make this gorgeous dress.

Although I always try my best to give you clear and easy to understand instruction, I strongly recommend you watch the video at least once to get the right idea. You can always come back and read the part that you forgot or wasn’t sure of.


Gilbert Top from Helen’s Closet

The fabrics I used:
Feel the Void – Free Style from Cotton and Steel

My sewing machine
Bernette B38 Swiss Design Computerized Sewing Machine (USA)

LDH Scissors and thread snip

Craft Clips

Flat Head Pins

Point Turner

Wash-away Wonder Tape

These are my online fabric shops.
All the fabrics I use are from either Dailylike Canada or Two O Nine Fabric Studio.
Dailylike Canada
Two O Nine Fabric Studio

Seam Allowance
Use 5/8″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated

2 Front (Mirrored), 1 Back (On fold), 2 Back Yoke, 2 Front Facing (Mirrored), 2 Collar, 1 Pocket, 2 Sleeve (Mirrored)

0. Preparation
*Interfacing will give the area additional strength and support
Apply interfacing to one Collar piece and the Front Facings
Staystitch the necklines and armholes (and front ties for View A)

1. Darts
Make sure to transfer all the markings for the darts
Fold to match the markings and pin RST (Right Side Together)
Sew from the edge to the dart point
At the dart point, do not backstitch and leave long thread tails

Tie the tail and trim it
Press the darts downwards

2. Pocket
Press the top 1/4″ of the pocket WST
Fold the top at the notches and press RST
Sew along the top sides (1/2″ Seam Allowance)
Turn the pocket right side out and press

Press the bottom and the sides in 1/2″
*For lightweight fabrics, folding the bottom corners in a triangular shape makes pockets with neat and sharp corners.
Pin the pocket to the top(Preferred sides) at the markings

Edgestitch/topstitch the sides and the bottom of the Pocket

3. Back
Sandwich the Back between the Back Yoke pieces
Match the notches and sew
Grade each layer at different lengths to reduce the bulkiness of this seam

It doesn’t need to look neat
Press both yokes upwards

4. Shoulder
Make the Yoke Facing out of the way
Pin and sew Front and Back at shoulders RST

Trim and press the seam towards the back
Fold 1/4″ and press the outer edge of the Front Facings and set them aside WST
Bring the Yoke Facing
Pin and sew the Front Facings to the Back Yoke Facing RST
Grade the Front Facing seam

Press the seam towards the Back Yoke Facing along the stitch

5. Collar
Pin and sew the three un-notched edges of the collar pieces RST
Grade the seam and trim the corners
Turn the collar right side out and press
Topstitch/edgestitch the three sewed sides and baste the open side
Basting is to sew with long loose stitches to hold layers in place temporarily

Move Yoke and Front Facings out of the way
Pin and baste the Collar to the Neckline RST

6. The Burrito Method
Roll the shirt towards the yoke

Bring the Front Facing and Back Yoke Facing over
Align the neckline, matching shoulder seams and notches RST
Pin the center of Front and Front Facing and sew
Take your time sewing the neckline, making sure all the layers have flat avoided any puckering
Grade the seam
Clip the curve around the neckline

Pull the ‘burrito’ out
Turn everything right side out and give a good press
Line up and pin the shoulders of the Yoke Facing and the shirt WST
Slightly cover the stitch with the folded shoulder seam of Back Yoke Facing

Stitch in the ditch from the right side
Hand-sewing is also makes a nice finish

7. Bodice
Pin and sew the side seams of Front and Back RST

Finish the seam with your preferred method
Press the seam towards the back
Sew the Facing to the shirt front at the hem RST (1/2″ Seam Allowance)
Trim the corner
Grade the facing seam
Fold the hem 1/4″, then 1/4″ again and press WST
Turn the right side out and press

Topstitch/edgestitch the Front Facing and hem
Topstitch/edgestitch the Front Facing to the shirt front

8. Sleeves
1/2″ Seam Allowance
Sew two lines of basting stitches between notches
Don’t forget to leave thread tails for gathering
Sew underarm seams RST
Finish the seam with your preferred method
Turn the right side out and gather the basting stitches slightly
Slip the sleeve into the armhole RST

Match and pin the stitches and notches
Spread gathers to make the armholes fit together
Sew the armholes
Finish the seam with your preferred method

Doublefold the sleeve hem to your preferred length and press

9. Button + Buttonholes
Make the buttonholes and attach the buttons at your preferred positions
*Every machine has different settings for making buttonholes. Please refer to your manual

All the best to you in the new year and here’s to growing our memade wardrobes together!
I will see you in the next post!

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  1. Pingback: Oversized Gathered Sleeve Hack Part 2 Adjust Set-in Shoulder to a Drop Shoulder - Sewing Therapy - Sewing Therapy

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