Hello! I’m Sara and welcome back to Sewing Therapy. Today’s sew-along tutorial is for the Zero Waste Coat by Birgitta Helmersson. This is my second ZW pattern by Birgitta and like the ZW Dress, the ZW Coat is an incredible pattern. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that it only takes 1.5 yards to make a short coat! I think Birgitta is a genius and I’m so grateful for her sustainable patterns.
If you’re new to zero waste patterns, you should know that these types of patterns are not just about saving fabric, but they’re also flexible, allowing you to use any size of fabric you have. Depending on the size of fabric you begin with, you’ll end up with a different coat size and shape.
For this video, I made a Coat using a brushed linen fabric and I’m also making one out of a super soft Sherpa, which I just started carrying in my shop. I’m having so much fun with it, and if you’re interested, I can share tips on how to sew with Sherpa.
I’m pleased to announce that this ZW Coat wraps up by #makenine2021! Thanks so much for following my #makenine2021 journey and please leave me a comment if you have any suggestions for my #makenine2022 video list.
Let’s get started.
Materials
ZW Coat pattern from Birgitta Helmersson
Brushed Linen
FAQ Material List
The sewing machine I have:
Bernette B37 Swiss Design Computerized Sewing Machine
https://amzn.to/3etYaFE (USA)
LDH Scissors and thread snip
Tailor’s Chalk Pencil
Lightweight Fusible Interfacing
http://bit.ly/fusible_interfacing
Wash-away Wonder Tape
Canada https://amzn.to/35DUwUj
Craft Clips
Canada https://amzn.to/32vmK2u
Flat Head Pins
Canada https://amzn.to/2IaKoKm
Point Turner
Canada https://amzn.to/39rgfQA
Sewing Thread
https://twooninefabric.ca/collections/sewing-thread
*****Disclosure******
Some of the links above are affiliate links. Clicking and purchasing through affiliate links gives me a small commission. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, I wanted to help you find the materials easier. So you can focus more on your project. Thank you.
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Seam Allowance
Use 3/8″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated
4 B (Mirrored) – Collar, 4 C – 2 Pocket, 2 Sleeve Band, Front Neck Cut – Out (Back Neck Facing)
1. Pocket
Double-fold down to the notch and press WST (Wrong Side Together)
Edgestitch/topstitch
Fold the sides and bottom and press WST
2. Back Neck Facing
Fold Front Neck Cut-Out and press WST
Fold Front Neck Cut-Out towards the Back WST
Pin and edgestitch/topstitch
3. Side Seam
Pin and sew the side seams and serge RST (Right Side Together)
4. Sleeve Band
Fold in half and sew RST
Open seams and press
Slip the Arm into the Sleeve Band
Make a few pleats by folding to match the edges and pin
Sew
Press the Sleeve Band towards the Seam
Fold the edge and press WST
Fold the Sleeve Band in half
Slightly cover the main stitch with the folded edge and pin
Edgestitch/topstitch
5. Front Placket
Fold the edges of Front Facing and press WST
Fold the Front Facing inwards WST
Edgestitch/Topstitch
6. Collar
*I attached 2 oz interfacing on the collar as I want it to be more fluffy
Sew the Collar pieces at the center
Press seam open
Fold the flat edge of one Collar piece and press
Pin and sew the Collar pieces at the curved edge (1/8″ SA)
Snip the curved edge
Turn right side out and press
Pin the unfolded edge of the Collar and the neckline
Match the end of the raw edge of Bodice to the folded edge of Collar
Sew the back of neckline first
*Somehow mine doesn’t match so I had to improvise
Sew the rest
*My side neckline is longer than the Collar so I folded the shoulder area to match the length
Cover the main stitch with the folded edge of Collar and pin well
*Wonder Tape is also a good option
Trim the seam in case the corners are too bulky
Cover the main stitch with the folded edge of Collar and pin well
7. Pocket
Pin Pockets at the preferred position and sew the sides and bottom
8. Hem
*You can leave the selvedge as the hem or cut to your desired length, douoble-fold, and edgestitch/topstitch
And that’s how you make a ZW Coat! I hope you enjoyed sewing with me and I can’t wait to see your versions. I will see you in my next post. Thanks for reading and watching!