Hello, I am Sara and welcome back to sewing therapy. Today we’re sewing an amazing new pattern by I AM Patterns called the HELIOS. This is my first collaboration with I AM and I couldn’t be happier with this pattern. (I AM is known for their trendy yet timeless sewing patterns and their new collection is beautiful.) You know I love a versatile pattern, and the Helios may just take the cake for versatility as you can make seven different garments with this pattern. Seven! Today I’ll be making a View E Dress with you.
One of the unique features of the Helios is the strap slider. This was my first time using strap gliders and I ran into a hiccup as I bought the wrong kind! Please learn from my error and use a tri-glide slider with a moveable middle bar. Thankfully it was a simple mistake to fix by unpicking the front and swapping sliders. This would be a great area to add variation to the shoulder straps.
I AM recommends that you make the pattern using flowy fabrics with a nice drape for that lovely swishy look, and I love how my dress turned out using rayon. I think a woven fabric could create a different mood altogether and I plan on trying that for my next Helios.
My measurements had me in between sizes so I ended up making a size 38. If you’re like me and in between, I recommend that you go with the smaller size, (especially if you’re smaller in the bust area).
As you can see from the photos from I AM, the Helios provides a lovely comfy look with a willowed waist where the top drapes over the bottom piece. I generally wear a more waist-defined look so I modified mine and added those steps in the video. You can definitely skip this part and make the Helios as intended.
And saving the best news for last, I AM has generously offered a special discount code! I’ll leave the information in the description below and hope you’ll join me in making your own Helios. Thank you I AM!
Let’s get started!
Use code: IAMXSEWINGTHERAPY to have 15% off
the Helios PDF pattern in May and June 2022!
Helios Pattern from I AM Patterns
https://iampatterns.fr/en/product/women-sewing-pattern-bundle-top-skirt-shorts-trousers-playsuit-dress-jumpsuit-helios/
I used fabrics from my shop
https://bit.ly/camontrayon
FAQ Material List
The sewing machine I have:
Bernette B37 Swiss Design Computerized Sewing Machine
https://amzn.to/3etYaFE (USA)
LDH Scissors and thread snip
http://bit.ly/3vbHj04
Tailor’s Chalk Pencil
http://bit.ly/chalkpencil
Poly Sewing Thread
https://bit.ly/209thread
Lightweight Fusible Interfacing
https://bit.ly/3GETKGw
Wash-away Wonder Tape
Canada https://amzn.to/35DUwUj
USA https://amzn.to/39ylJc2
Craft Clips
Canada https://amzn.to/32vmK2u
USA https://amzn.to/3sjKKiU
Flat Head Pins
Canada https://amzn.to/2IaKoKm
USA https://amzn.to/32slD31
Point Turner
Canada https://amzn.to/39rgfQA
USA https://amzn.to/3qjfKyA
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS
Flowy fabrics with a nice drape such as rayon, silk, lyocell, cupro, cotton crepe, viscose crepe
MATERIAL
3/4″ Strap Slider with Moveable Middle Bar, 3/8″ wide elastic for waistband, 3/8″ wide drawstring or tie
CUT
1 Front Bodice (On Fold), 1 Front Facing (Interfaced), 1 Back Facing (Interfaced), 2 Strap (Interfaced Optional), 2 Strap Tab (Interfaced Optional), 1 Front & 1 Back Skirt (On Fold) <- I used the skirt shape of size 46 -52 to make it longer, 2 Pocket Backing (Mirrored), 2 Waistband
SEAM ALLOWANCE
Use 3/8″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated
01. DART
Fold and match up the notches for the dart RST (Right Side Together)
Sew from the outside to the dart point, leaving a thread tail
Using the thread tails, tie a few knots and trim
Press the dart downwards
02. Strap
Fold one short end and both long edges and press WST (Wrong Side Together)
Fold the Strap in half lengthwise and press
Check to make sure it fits the Strap Slider
Topstitch
Fold the long edges and press WST
Fold it in half and press
Topstitch
Place Strap 3/8″ away from the corner of Back Bodice and baste RST
Basting – is a straight stitch used to temporarily hold layers of fabric together
Insert Strap Tab to one side of Strap Slider
Fold Strap Tab and baste
Place Strap Tab 3/8″ away from the corner of Front Bodice and baste RST
03. Bodice
Finish the bottom edge of the Facing
Sew Front and Front Facing at the neckline and the armhole RST
Repeat for Back and Back Facing
Trim the seam and snip the curved edges
*Trimming and Snipping help to make a nice and smooth curved line
Send the Facing towards the seam and press
Sew as close as you can to the corner
Understitch – to sew as close to the seam line as possible holding the seam to the facing or lining
Lift the Facing, pin the Front and Back at the sides RST
Sew and serge
Snip and send the seams in opposite ways to reduce bulk
Handstitch/Stitch in the ditch the Facing to the Bodice at the side to secure
Stitch in the ditch – to sew two pieces together over the top of an existing seam line to prevent the layers from moving
**Watch the video for how to the strap slider if you don’t know-how.
04. Pocket
Pin and sew the slashed edge of the Front Skirt and Pocket Lining RST
Press Pocket Lining towards the seam and understitch
Pin and sew the outer edge of Pocket Lining and Pocket Backing, and serge
Flip Front Dress to the right side and pin the pocket to the waist and side
Repeat for the other side
05. Skirt
Pin and sew Front and Back Skirt RST
And serge
06. Waistband
Interface the backside of the Outer Waistband where the buttonholes will be made
I finish my buttonholes with Fray Check and open them using a chisel
Fold in half and sew the short edges together RST
Fold the Inner Waistband and sew the short edges together by 3/8″ of the top and bottom ONLY
Fold the Inner Waistband in half and sew the top and bottom 3/8″ of the short edge
** This will be the opening for the elastics and tie
Press both seams open
07. WaistBand + Skirt
Pin the Inner Waistband to the wrong side of the Skirt
Pin the Outer Waistband to the right side of the Skirt
Sew
Press Outer and Inner Waistbands towards the seam
Topstitch
08. Bodice + Skirt
Fold the Outer Waistband and press
Insert the Skirt into the Bodice and pin the Bodice and Inner Waistband
Sew
Give it a nice press
Turn right side out
Press the seam towards the Waistband
Cover the main stitch slightly with the Outer Waistband and pin/wonder tape
Topstitch
09. Waistband
Divide the Waistband into three equal sections and topstitch two parallel lines
Join the end of the Elastic
Handstitch and close the opening
10. Hem
Serge the bottom hem
Fold and edgestitch/topstitch
Baste the edge of the hem and gather the edge slightly
You can now fold the rounded hem neatly using the gathered edge
I think in every me-made wardrobe, it’s important to include patterns that are classic and interesting and have space to express your individual style. The Helios toes this line gracefully – I love my new dress and am looking forward to trying out some of the other variations. I would love to hear your thoughts about this new pattern in the comments section below and see how your finished Helios looks on you! Thank you I AM for this beautiful collaboration. A reminder to grab your Helios using the discount code in the description below. And if you like this video and would like to support Sewing Therapy, please give a quick click to subscribe Thank you!
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