Hello, Sara here.
It’s been over 2 months since I’ve done my last MakeNine project. Because of the pandemic, my plans got a little bit off to sidetrack since I was making mask tutorials and basic sewing guide for beginners. Anyways, ENOUGH OF EXCUSE. Let’s start the next MakeNine project ‘Zadie Jumpsuit’!
MakeNine No.3 is Zadie Jumpsuit. I’ll be honest. I am not a big fan of the jumpsuit because of the washroom issue. However, Zadie Jumpsuit changed my mind. When I wear it, the jumpsuit is not only stylish but very comfortable. I recommend any fabric that drapes well such as Viscose, Rayon, apparel linen etc.
If you are not at an advanced level, I strongly recommend you watch the video at least once to get the right idea. You can always come back and read the part that you forgot or wasn’t sure of.
Alright. Let’s get started!
Materials
Pattern from Paper Theory, 2.5 yards of fabric
These are my online fabric shops.
All the fabrics I use are from either Dailylike Canada or Two O Nine Fabric Studio.
Dailylike Canada http://www.dailylike.ca
Two O Nine Fabric Studio https://www.etsy.com/shop/twooninefabricstudio
Cut
2 Front Bodice (Mirrored), 2 Back Bodice (Mirrored), 2 Sleeves, 2 Pockets (Mirrored), 2 Back Leg (Mirrored), 2 Front Leg (Mirrored), 2 Belts, Neck Binding
*Preparation Neck Binding*
In case your pieces are not long enough, you can connect them using this method
– Lay the ends of two pieces at the Right angles RST (Right Side Together) and pin
– Sew a diagonal line from one corner to the other
– Trim to a 3/8″ seam allowance
– Open the seam and press
*Preparation Belt*
– Fold one end and make it neat
– Fold one long edge to the middle line and press. Repeat for the other edge
– With both edges folded in, fold in half and press again
– Edgestitch the folded edge from one end to the other
– Edgestitch the folded edge from one end to the other
– Repeat for the other belt
– Set them aside
1. Back Bodice
– Sew the back bodice pieces RST
– And serge
Tip: Cutting out the back bodice in one piece (folded) can skip a few steps
2. Pleats on Bodice
Use the notches
– Fold the pleats towards the side seams and pin
– Staystitch with a 1/8″ – 1/4″ seam allowance
– Repeat for the pleats on the front bodice
3. Bodice (Shoulder Seams)
– Place the back and front bodice RST
– Pin the shoulder seams together, sew and serge
– Press the finished seams towards the back
4. Sleeves
– Place the sleeves on top of armhole edge RST and pin
– Sew and serge
– Repeat for the other side
– Press the finished seams towards the bodice
5. Side Seams & Belt Opening
– Match the shoulder stitches and pin the side seams RST
– Sew the side seams
– Sew until you meet the mark
– This part will become the opening for your belt
– Sew the left side seam and serge
– Sew the right side seam until you meet the mark
– Open the seam and serge a part of the belt hole on one side first
– Open the seam and serge a part of belt hole on one side first
– Serge the other side until the mark
– Then carefully add the other side and serge both sides together
– Topstitch around the belt opening
6. Pleats on Legs
Use the notches
– Fold the pleats on the back and front legs towards the side seams
– Staystitch with 1/8″ – 1/4″ seam allowance
7. Pockets (Slashed Pockets)
– Lay the pocket on the front leg aligning the diagonal edges, pin and sew RST
– Repeat for the other side
– Press the seam towards the pocket and understitch
– Fold the pocket in half aligning the lower edge and pin RST
– Sew and serge. Repeat for the other side
– Fold the pocket backwards and align the side and the top
– Repeat for the other side
– Staystitch (1/8″ – 1/4″ SA) the side and top edge of the pocket
8. Pants (Inseams & Outseams)
– Place the outside and inside leg seams of Front Leg and Back Leg RST and pin
– Sew and serge
9. Pants (Crotch Seam)
– Place one leg inside the other RST matching inseams and pin
– Sew the crotch starting at the back until you meet the mark in the front
– Serge the crotch seam starting at the back and stop it anywhere before the mark
– Serge the crotch seam starting at the back and stop it anywhere before the mark (The reference photo is from Paper Theory pattern)
10. Waist (Joining Bodice and Pants)
– Close the belt opening and pin
– Pin the bodice to the pants around the waist seam matching the side seams RST
– Sew and serge
11. Belt
– Sew the raw edge of the belt onto the inside of the bodice
12. Neckline
Staystitch prevents the fabric from becoming stretched or distorted
– Staystitch (1/8″ – 1/4″ SA) the neckline
– Attach the binding to the front opening, starting at the front crotch
– Pin all the way around the neck curve to the opposite crotch seam RST
– Sew
– Double fold the binding to wrap the seam completely and pin all around
– Edgestitch or stitch in the ditch the biding down through all layers
– Serge the unserged edge of the crotch seam
Tip: I use a big-eyed needle to bury the tail of the serger threads
– Send the belts outwards and sew to make it secure
13. Hem
– Cut the bottom edges of the sleeves and pants to your preferred length (I shortened the sleeves by 5″)
– Serge, fold 1″ and sew the folded edge
That’s it! Zadie jumpsuit literally changed my view on jumpsuit. I think it can be very comfortable while it looks very beautiful. I think it’s intermediate to advanced level garment sewing project. You will need to pay attention to details here and there. It’s definitely a good practice if you want to level up your sewing skills. Also, if you decide to make one, you will be able to see yourself in the mirror wearing this jumpsuit with very satisfying smile. I will see you in the next post! Thanks for reading!
*****Disclosure******
Some of the links above are affiliate links. .Clicking and purchasing through affiliate links gives me a small commission. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, I wanted to help you find the materials easier. So you can focus more on your project. Thank you.
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Here’s my Patreon page link. Your support is greatly appreciated! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=32815284
Let’s get connected!
Sewing Therapy
Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/yoursara_k/
Blog – http://sewingtherapy.net/
Twitter – https://twitter.com/SewingTherapy
Dailylike Canada
Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/dailylikecanada
Facebook – http://www.facebook.com/dailylikecanada
Pinterest – https://www.pinterest.ca/dailylikecanada
Two O Nine Fabric Studio
Instagram –https://www.instagram.com/twooninefabric